FAO en Colombia

Food within our reach

(27.01.2014) While travelling through Upper Andágueda Indian Reservation in the Municipality of Bagadó in Choco - Colombia, it’s easy to realize that everything is different here. Instead of large paved roads, there are small dirt paths making their way through the mountains and jungle, surrounded by lush vegetation and running through small rivers and streams. Where the river is mighty enough, you walk over weak suspended bridges that sway as men, women, children, horses and mules cross them. Nothing can be heard. At least not what you usually hear elsewhere. The sound of nature seems amplified; the wind, rain and insects. Sometimes you can hear the voices of other people travelling across the mountain by mule, warning others as they take turns on the narrowest parts of its winding path. It’s a long and difficult journey for any who have not grown up in the area, but when you finally reach the top of the mountain, the landscape of Andágueda is a reward for the senses. While I was walking through the narrow and steep trails, I kept wondering how these people could transport anything, such as the materials and supplies needed to build their homes.

After six hours of walking through the mountains there was Aguasal. The first thing you see in the distance is a large school and a church that seem out of place given the landscape. How did they get all the material here to build those? We take a short break, freshen up and keep trekking. We have yet to reach Bajo Curripipí. After another two hours I can finally make out some of the houses and see the community hard at work. As I get closer, I can hear music and see some activity. It isn’t common for the community to receive visitors, though it quickly becomes apparent that the people accompanying me know everyone in the community very well. They are treated with affection, like family. The Embera Katío community receives me with open arms and offers me a drink. Everyone gathers in the village centre to listen attentively. The women stay close together with their children. The men also group together. They are the ones who participate, asking questions and getting everything into motion. The women don’t say much but listen attentively. They wear colorful dresses and look happy as they listen to the music in the background.

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