Savouring heritage through forgotten foods

18/07/2024

Africa's culinary landscape is a rich tapestry of biodiversity and tradition, holding beneath its vibrant surface a treasure trove of forgotten foods. These regionally adapted crops, once central to the continent's diverse cultures, are critical to revisit as the world tackles pressing challenges like food security, climate change and environmental sustainability.

African agriculture holds a vast, untapped potential that can transform the continent's socio-economic landscape. Rich with diverse climates and fertile soils, Africa hosts a wealth of native crops that offer both nutritional benefits and ecological sustainability.

As global demands on food systems intensify, the continent stands ready to reclaim its agricultural heritage and chart a sustainable path forward that fosters human capital development, job creation, industrial growth, structural transformation and the preservation of ecosystems.

Recognizing this, the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) and the Forum for Agricultural Research in Africa (FARA) launched the Integrating Africa’s forgotten foods for better nutrition publication together with a Compendium of Forgotten Foods in Africa, which catalogues 100 native foods that hold the key to sustainable and resilient food practices.

“The list is not exhaustive, but we tried to make a selection based on potential geographic adaptability coverage and availability of nutritional information,” said Mphumuzi Sukati, FAO Senior Food and Nutrition Officer based in the Organization’s regional office for Africa.   

The significance of these foods stretches far beyond their nutritional value. Food is a powerful expression of cultural identity, communal bonds and ancestral wisdom.

Traditional dishes and the ingredients that compose them are imbued with stories and meanings that have been passed down through generations. 

Among the hundred forgotten foods featured are two varieties of fonio, a highly nutritious grain long cultivated across West Africa from Senegal to Chad. White fonio thrives in poor soil conditions and is known for its fast-growing cycle, while black fonio is primarily grown in Nigeria and the northern regions of Togo and Benin. Fonio is exceptionally versatile in its culinary uses: the seeds can be cooked as a staple like couscous, ground into flour for bread or used to make both thick and thin porridges. The whole seed can also be popped like popcorn.

Another standout in the compendium is the baobab fruit, grown on what is known in Madagascar as the "Tree of Life." Given the particular shape of this majestic plant, an Arabian legend has it that “the devil plucked up the baobab, thrust its branches into the earth and left its roots in the air.”

Revered for its longevity, with some trees living up to 1 000 years, baobab is steeped in myth and nutritional value and grows across the dryer areas of the continent. Rich in vitamin A, antioxidants and soluble fibre, baobab fruit is consumed in various ways. It can be eaten dry as a snack or mixed with milk to create a nutritious porridge, providing essential nutrients that support vision, immune health and digestion.

In many parts of the continent, the legacy of traditional agriculture has been marginalized by the shift towards cash crops and intensive farming methods. This shift has not only altered the landscape but also the social fabric of communities. Traditionally, African agriculture was a collective endeavour where knowledge, often held by women, was crucial for the cultivation of diverse crops.

The reintroduction of crops, adapted to this land and climate, is a step towards ecological balance. These crops are naturally resistant to many local pests and diseases and are well-suited to the climate and soil conditions of their native habitats, requiring fewer agricultural inputs than their imported counterparts.

By cultivating them, farmers can reduce their reliance on chemical pesticides and fertilizers, enhancing biodiversity and sustaining soil health.

The path to rediscovering Africa’s traditional foods also represents a vital shift towards fostering local food trade where communities have control over their own agrifood systems, from the seeds they sow to the crops they harvest and consume.

This emphasis on trade is crucial for food security, particularly in regions vulnerable to market fluctuations and climate impacts, as it can foster new business opportunities, increasing production and adding value to reach new markets.

From the bustling local markets where these foods regain their place, to the kitchens where they are transformed into aromatic dishes, the resurgence of traditional foods is about more than just eating. It's about preserving a heritage, sustaining the environment and empowering communities. It's a movement that intertwines the goals of cultural preservation, food security and environmental sustainability.

The FAO and FARA’s efforts, through initiatives like the compendium, serve as both a resource and a catalyst for this movement. Africa’s agrifood systems stand before a profound opportunity. By reclaiming and celebrating its culinary traditions, the continent is not merely looking back to its past, it is paving a sustainable pathway for the future. 

Related links

Learn more

• Publication: Integrating Africa’s forgotten foods for better nutrition
• Publication: Compendium of forgotten foods in Africa
• Website: FAO Regional Office for Africa