Foro Global sobre Seguridad Alimentaria y Nutrición (Foro FSN)

Consultas

Los alimentos de venta en las calles y la agricultura urbana y periurbana: perspectivas para una coalición estratégica hacia la seguridad alimentaria

Estimados miembros del Foro FSN,
 
Estoy muy contento de ser el facilitador de esta segunda discusión en línea  sobre la venta de alimentos en la calles.
 
Mi nombre es Stefano Marras. Actualmente realizo un postdoctorado en el Departamento de Administración de Empresas, Finanzas, Administración y Derecho, y en el Departamento de Sociología e Investigación Social de la Universidad de Milán-Bicocca, en Italia.
 
El objetivo de este segundo debate es compartir puntos de vista sobre los vínculos reales y potenciales entre la venta de alimentos en las calles y la agricultura y horticultura urbana y periurbana (AUP), analizando si, y de qué manera, esos vínculos pueden servir de base para posibles estrategias para mejorar la seguridad alimentaria en áreas urbanas.
 
Esta discusión será una oportunidad para ampliar y fortalecer la red de especialistas involucrados en el comercio y la gobernanza de alimentos callejeros en todo el mundo.
 
Introducción
 
La seguridad alimentaria urbana depende de la disponibilidad, acceso y calidad de los alimentos en el tiempo. Con el rápido crecimiento de la población urbana y los bajos niveles nutricionales de la población urbana y periurbana pobre, existe un margen enorme para aumentar la oferta de alimentos accesibles, sanos y nutritivos, garantizando a la vez su producción sostenible. El mundo académico, la FAO, la OMS, todos reconocen que los alimentos de venta en las calles -es decir, alimentos y bebidas listos para consumir preparados y/o vendidos por comerciantes o vendedores ambulantes, en la vía pública y lugares similares- y la agricultura y la horticultura urbana y periurbana (AUP) -el cultivo de plantas y la cría de animales dentro y alrededor de las ciudades- tienen potencial para ayudar a lograr la seguridad alimentaria en las zonas urbanas.
 
Los alimentos de venta callejera representan una proporción significativa del consumo diario de alimentos para millones de consumidores de bajos y medianos ingresos en las zonas urbanas, siendo la manera menos costosa y más accesible de obtener una comida nutricionalmente equilibrada fuera de casa (siempre que el consumidor esté informado y sea capaz de elegir una combinación adecuada de alimentos). Además, la preparación y venta de alimentos en la vía pública supone una fuente regular de ingresos para millones de hombres y mujeres con capital financiero, social, y cultural limitado, ya que la inversión inicial y los gastos generales son relativamente bajos, y cocinar requiere escaso o ningún aprendizaje formal. 
 
Dentro de este marco, la AUP puede proporcionar a los vendedores ambulantes de alimentos ingredientes frescos, nutritivos y menos costosos. Aunque en la mayoría de las ciudades en los países en desarrollo una parte importante de la producción agrícola urbana es para el autoconsumo, la importancia de la agricultura urbana orientada hacia el mercado -tanto en volumen como en valor económico-, no debe subestimarse. La investigación ha demostrado que la agricultura urbana en pequeña escala orientada al mercado a menudo es más rentable que la producción agrícola en pequeña escala en las zonas rurales y genera ingresos superiores al nivel del salario mínimo oficial. Una ventaja comparativa de los productores urbanos es su proximidad a los consumidores de las ciudades. Los horticultores urbanos gastan menos en el transporte, envasado y almacenamiento, y pueden vender directamente a través de puestos de comida en las calles y puestos en los mercados. El agricultor urbano puede obtener hasta un 50-75 por ciento del precio de venta al por menor, en función del sistema de comercialización, mientras que el campesino recibe habitualmente entre el 15 y el 40 por ciento.
 
La producción local de alimentos puede ser una importante fuente de suministro de hortalizas frescas para la preparación de alimentos de venta callejera. Dado que los alimentos de producción local requieren menos transporte y refrigeración, puede abastecer a los mercados cercanos con productos más frescos y nutritivos a precios competitivos. Producir alimentos en las ciudades, puede por lo tanto, y de hecho ayuda, a mejorar la calidad de la dieta de la gente, proporcionando una mayor oferta de frutas y verduras frescas a mejores precios, sobre todo a las personas en el segmento de bajos ingresos. Los alimentos de venta ambulante más comunes, en la mayoría de los países, se basan en ingredientes de origen animal obtenidos a menudo de animales criados en las ciudades, por lo que la producción de la ganadería comercial periurbana es un sector con un crecimiento extremadamente rápido, representando el 34 por ciento de la producción total de carne y casi el 70 por ciento de la producción de huevos en todo el mundo. Por otro lado, la preparación de ensaladas frescas se han convertido cada vez más en un componente integral de la comida callejera que se vende en ciudades como Accra, Ghana, y Santiago de Chile. Algunos agricultores urbanos y periurbanos se dirigen incluso hacia la producción intensiva de productos de alto valor agregado, en lugar de los alimentos básicos; tales actividades pueden convertirse en importantes fuentes de ingresos para los miembros de la población con más medios y que tienen capacidad de inversión.
 
En Bogotá, Colombia podemos ver otra de las tendencias en la comercialización directa, en la que los agricultores-productores y los minoristas se sientan en el consejo de la corporación y deciden conjuntamente lo que se produce y cuando. Esta y otras tendencias también son apoyadas por los nuevos sistemas de comunicaciones.
 
No obstante, tanto la venta callejera de alimentos como la agricultura urbana son todavía en gran parte discutidas y tienen la oposición, o más bien son ignoradas, por los planificadores. Por ello los vendedores ambulantes de alimentos y los agricultores de la AUP a menudo operan sin permisos. Dado que es oficialmente “invisible”, el sector no recibe ayudas públicas o supervisión en muchas ciudades. Por esta razón, la APU conlleva riesgos sanitarios y ambientales: uso potencial de tierra contaminada y malos olores de desagües y contaminación acústica, y uso inadecuado de pesticidas y abonos orgánicos que pueden filtrarse en las fuentes de agua. La producción, procesamiento y venta de alimentos en las zonas periurbanas, a la vez que crea empleo, plantea problemas relacionados con la contaminación y la inocuidad alimentaria.
 
Las autoridades de muchos países han respondido a este problema con una débil y errática implementación de la legislación sobre los alimentos de venta en las calles y la agricultura urbana. A medida que crecen las normas formales e informales, hay un riesgo real de que los pobres se vean excluidos de los mercados.
 
Los gobiernos deberían reconocer el papel desempeñado por la AUP y los alimentos de venta callejera para que haya alimentos disponibles para las familias pobres de las zonas urbanas y en la generación de ingresos; tienen que enfrentarse con los problemas que prevalecen y aceptar las estrategias de base de los medios de subsistencia urbanos que incluyen la agricultura urbana y la venta ambulante, así como darse cuenta de los beneficios y oportunidades creadas por el uso productivo de los espacios verdes en las ciudades, tanto en términos de nutrición como de desarrollo del medio ambiente.
 
La FAO apoya la transformación de la AUP y la venta ambulante en un uso del espacio urbano y actividad económica reconocidos por derecho propio, integrados en las estrategias nacionales y locales de desarrollo agrícola, programas de alimentación y nutrición, y planificación urbana. La FAO ayuda a los gobiernos nacionales y regionales y las administraciones municipales a optimizar sus políticas y servicios de apoyo a la agricultura urbana y peri-urbana, y a mejorar los sistemas de producción, transformación y comercialización. Con el tiempo la imagen de la agricultura urbana y periurbana puede evolucionar hacia la de actividades aceptadas y necesarias, reemplazando la imagen de algo temporal y relacionado con las crisis del pasado.
 
Preguntas
 
A la vista de lo anterior, me gustaría plantear las siguientes preguntas/reflexiones como tema de debate:
 
  1. ¿Es usted consciente de los vínculos directos reales entre los vendedores ambulantes de alimentos y los agricultores urbanos locales?
  2. ¿Hay ejemplos de medidas concretas promovidas por las autoridades locales para reconocer y aumentar este tipo de vínculo?
  3. Si es así, ¿cómo han influido estas acciones en las decisiones de los consumidores sobre los alimentos de venta en las calles?
  4. ¿Han existido iniciativas similares promovidas directamente por las asociaciones de vendedores ambulantes de alimentos? ¿Cómo?
  5. Considero que se requiere la creación de un sistema de incentivos (por ej, permisos para vender en zonas donde hay más clientes potenciales, como las cercanías de escuelas, hospitales, núcleos de transporte, bonos o algún tipo de mecanismo de reconocimiento de buenas prácticas) para motivar a los vendedores ambulantes a utilizar productos frescos de origen local. ¿Cree que este tipo de incentivos podría tener éxito, y por qué? ¿Qué otros tipos de incentivos podrían existir, y por qué?
  6. ¿Qué nuevos mecanismos pueden ponerse en marcha para aumentar la concienciación de la gente sobre las consecuencias de sus hábitos de alimentación en las calles? ¿Conoce algún método de publicidad que haya demostrado ser eficaz?
 
Deseo que haya un intercambio fructífero y les agradezco de antemano sus aportaciones, ya que contribuirán a perfilar la evaluación de cualquier intervención futura sobre el terreno. 
 
Muchas gracias
Stefano Marras

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The University of Eldoret, formerly Chepkoilel University College is in a Peri-urban set-up and we have developed a value chain which shortens the distance between producer, vendor and consumer of vegetables, fruits and cereals for the sorrounding community, including the student population. This lessens costs on transport for both producer and street vendor and makes commodities more affordable whilst lessening the loss of nutrients and that may occur due to excessive postharvest handling, and shortens the carbon loop. The sellers feed their waste back into the University gardening project in which students from the sorrounding schools participate in producing, processing, packaging and selling of produce the vendors. The consumers enjoy the products which are hygienically made and the demand is very high, necessitating an expansion of the project.

Dear all,

In Cameroon, street food is a common issue. CECOSDA, as a center for Communication and Sustainable Development for All has been working with street food vendors to improve their impact on food security. 

Yaounde, Cameroon:

In Biyem-Assi, a neighborhood of Cameroon’s capital city Yaoundé, Solange Kimbi and her younger sister prepare food to be sold roadside to the local population which includes men and women of various works of life.  Solange has been preparing and selling food for a period of about 7 years. By providing food to those workers, she considers herself as a pertinent actor in food security process in her community due to shortages and increase in prices of raw food stuff.

Solange sells a plate of food at 500 Frs CFA( onedollar).  ”It is the minimum cost per a plate. However, most average Cameroonians cannot afford to have a daily plate of food at this rate”. Being considered as a low-income and food-deficit country by the World Food Programme, Cameroon has conducted in 2007 a food security and vulnerability analysis. This suggests that vulnerability and food insecurity in the country were due to poor agricultural production, low education and income levels, and inadequate infrastructure

Threats to food security may seem out of place for a country like Cameroon, with abundant agricultural resources. However, Solange has a major worry because she has seen food prices increase very sharply over the past seven years and still increasing till date. More often she counts on local farmers to supply raw food. Every effort put in by the State has not actually yielded any fruits despite several attempts to decrease the price of food stuff. According to Solange, most of the raw food from the local farmers of Cameroon which was usually consumed in urban areas is now being exported to other neighboring countries like Chad, Nigeria, Gabon, Central Africa Republic, Equatorial Guinea, amongst other.

Considering the high cost of raw food stuff in the market, the security of roadside food does not seem to be guaranteed. Most of the food vendors do not take out time to look into the cleanliness part of the preparation, since they cook in large quantities and are always in a hurry to meet up with the consumers. The hygienic aspects of street food vending are a major concern for consumers, and food control officers. Vending stands and beer parlors are often crude structures, and running water, washing facilities and toilettes may not be available. Moreover water used for cooking of food stuffs and washing of plates is usually not often verified; most of it is carried from dirty wells, sometimes very close to toilets, and often offered to customers to drink. Another call for concern lies on inadequate refuge disposal facilities, which lead to accumulation of refuge at food vending sites. This attracts an increased pest population and favors a high risk of food contamination.

The above mentioned are a major call for concern since it has proven to be the greatest source of food borne diseases. Foodborne bacterial agents are the leading cause of severe and fatal foodborne illnesses. Of the many thousands different bacterial species, more than 90% of food-poisoning illnesses are caused by species of Staphylococcus, Salmonella, Clostridium, Campylobacter, Listeria, Vibrio, Bacillus, and Enteropathogenic Escherichia coli (E-Coli).

This is under looked by most of these roadside food vendors, thus a real call for health concern to the entire public. CECOSDA as a center for Communication to Sustainable Development for All took the initiative to sensitize some of these food vendors on the food security aspect of roadside food consumption. This has actually been a highly appreciated initiative which has helped curbed the minds and behaviors of these vendor who has actually changed some aspects of the preparation and serving of food to customers.

Hi dear everyone, my name is Rowens Cristancho, I live in Colombia, South America.

I’m biologist, and like all of you, I'm really concerned about the global food security. In this forum, I have seen opinions from many professors and PhDs; I´m sorry, I don´t have a lot of professional experience, I received my bachelor degree a couple of days ago.  Some of you have cited many reports about street food vendors, I don´t have a lot of data, but something I know, I was for a long time a street food vendor in order to pay my basic needs and my professional studies.

Food street sales in my country is a current activity to get money in the urban poverty zones. This situation is produced by the fact that there are two kind of markets for food; I don´t know if this denomination way is right, but I called them: the big formal market and the little informal market. For the first one, the productive chain looks like this: a really big agricultural company produces tons of tomatoes, the tomatoes are sold in bulk to companies like Jumbo, who distributes the tomatoes in a high price but with a really sexy presentation, or McDonalds who uses the tomatoes in its products. I know that you know more than me about this topic. For the second one, the productive chain looks like this: a little local farmer can´t produce tons of tomatoes, he just produces some pounds; he carries his products to the local market where the prices are lower, this place is visited by poor people, who can´t buy in Jumbo (like me), in order to prepare street food, because is a fast and practical way to get some money.

I would like learn from you more about this situation, and sharing information science different points of view like social economic, scientific, and practical experience.

Thank you.

This is a good discussion, thank you Stefano.  

All agree that street food is here to stay, that it is a vibrant market sector and provides a good service to people who need it.  But all also agree that food hygiene and safety standards are low (see e.g. Ilaria Proietti).  The technical and social means of dealing with this are clear:  training, inspection, rules and standards, clean water supplies, good sanitation, clean transport etc. It is not at all clear however how these are to be achieved where public funds are lacking.  

The only alternative I can see is improved consumer education and influence, the market “pull” factor that Hélène de Lisle described in the NFSI project in Benin where (as I understand it) children learned to ask vendors for healthy food, and vendors duly responded (I must find out more).  But can that work more widely?  The Good Greens polling system where customers give vendors red or green marks according to their price/ taste/ hygiene/ freshness and nutritional quality, is very direct and appealing and I imagine that consumers can probably generally see freshness (though even in a stew?).  But how can they recognize good hygiene (e.g. if they cannot see how food or plates have been washed) or judge nutritional quality or know if foods are contaminated or if colour is due to chemicals? 

I have tried to find out from FAO if consumer education can achieve these things but have had no joy.  I have not seen these skills covered in school or public education materials.   Does that mean that consumer education can't achieve much?  And if regulation can't be afforded, does that mean we can't fix the problem of safety in street food?  Can anyone show the way here?

Jane Sherman, nutrition education consultant, FAO

Lisa Kitinoja

The Postharvest Education Foundation
Estados Unidos de América

One of my colleagues from New Zealand, when working in Tanzania on a food processing project for SIDA, went shopping for citrus peels that she wanted to use to make into a delightful candied peel confection (oranges, lemons, and/or limes).  She approached street food vendors in Arusha who was making fresh juices, and requested permission to take the "trash" for her training program.   Once the local women had learned to make the candied peel, and were packaging it in brightly colored containers with nice labels and selling it successfully in the markets, the citrus juice makers realized that they had a valuable by-product and began selling the peels. 

Dr. Lisa Kitinoja 

The Postharvest Education Foundation

1.Are you aware of actual direct links between street food vendors and local urban farmers

Yes In India it is commonly observed that during the main season or glut farmers supply teucj loads of fruits such as jackfruit, watermelon to road side venders. some time entire truck load material will be unloaded to single place. These street food venders sale produce by removing peel and seed in a ready to eat form such as water meol slices or jackfruit bulbs and also sale whole fruits to passing customers. Onther direct lonk has been observed beetween green coconut producers and road side sallers as the produce is directly supplied by farmers in the morning in a templo or cart while vender will cut and offer the fruits to indivisual customer.

Measures promoted by local authorities:

In  some cases street fruit venders offer fresh cut fruits as fruit salad. To have asafe approach local autorities compell to sale to produce keeping in enclosers of glass to avoid contact with flies and dust.

How have these actions influenced consumers’ choices towards street food

 

It gives cheap and fresh produce tro consumers

 Pessoal,

A comida de rua é uma necessidade das cidades por lugares mais simples, mais rápidos e mais em conta, além de também servir como uma oportunidade de criar um modelo de comprometimento, de maior inclusão das pessoas no negócio.

Uma das atividades que realizo com muita satisfação, são os Cursos de Boas Práticas na manipulação dos alimentos para “ambulantes” (vendedores de alimentos na rua), pois, a Prefeitura da cidade, exige que todos sejam devidamente capacitados para manipularem alimentos, não podendo atuar nesse setor sem esse requisito.

Esta é uma excelente oportunidade para conhecer melhor as dificuldades que as pessoas encontram nesse tipo de trabalho e orienta-las melhor. Um exemplo é o popular caldo de cana (também conhecido como garapa) tradicionalmente preparado sem os devidos cuidados e com grande resistência a mudanças principalmente por trabalhadores mais antigos.

A falta de água e de banheiros também são problemas praticamente unanimes que afligem e prejudicam esses trabalhadores.

Muitos deles fazem a maior parte da manipulação em casa, longe dos olhos da fiscalização sanitária. Outros compram alimentos prontos, de fornecedores que nem sempre estão devidamente qualificados. Durante o curso procuro orienta-los a exigirem e prestarem bastante atenção na qualidade dos alimentos que compram.

Ultimamente tem aumentado também o número de feiras de alimentos orgânicos provenientes da agricultura familiar, que oferecem serviços de venda online e através de coletivos de consumo.

Não podemos deixar de mencionar à moda do Food Trucks que é uma versão moderna da comida de rua, altamente rentável que traz o melhor da gastronomia as ruas das cidades, elevando assim a percepção sobre o trabalho dos ambulantes.

Obrigada,

Maria Travaglini

http://www.oficinadenutricao.com.br

Sabrina Aguiari

Thanks Stefano for this new articulation of the street food topics.

More than a case to feed the guiding questions you propose so far i would like to suggest an additional guiding question: are you aware of any case where the measure put in place towards food safety where introduced with a sort of 'protection' perspective, to actually make sure street food actors are helped, accompanied, in facing training, additional equipment requirements, bureacratic (and contingency of having to face administrative structure corruption) procedures to obtain permits?

I think if cases in this direction exist and could be shared in this forum, they might result to be also key good practices - people-centered - that ought to be considered in any future policy and regulation recommendation.

On the basis of the many interesting contributions to this discussion, I would like to share with you additional questions, hoping you find inspiration for more, new contributions.

  1. Some of you have pointed out the benefits of street foods based on millet (particularly in India, as reported by Prof Kirit Patel and Salomeyesudas), fruit (e.g. in South Africa, as noted by Prof. Hélène Delisle) and vegetables (e.g. in Lahore, as pointed out by Hamid Ahmad, and in Europe a century ago, as noted by Lal Manavado).

    What products, both plants and animals (including insects), do you believe should be more present on street food vendors' stands? Why?

     
  2. Are you familiar with technologies or techniques being tested for better transportation and better storage of food from rural to urban areas? (See Mr. Vijay Yadav Tokala's contribution)

     
  3. A key, often neglected issue is brought out by Hamid Ahmad. Hamid notes that the consumption street food in the United States is related to socio-cultural practices and secondary needs (e.g. free time). The so-called “foodies” in the US are even willing to pay the same price they would pay for the same product in a restaurant. In poorer countries, however, street food is mainly related to urban poverty and basic needs, providing nutritious food at low cost. Hence, Hamid points out the risks coming to official, top-down projects aimed at improving the quality of street foods, there where such projects may bring higher costs for vendors, and therefore higher prices for consumers. Rather, Hamid suggests that "social pressure and table talk on the spot by consumers routine matter and affect much more than drawing any lines for monitoring and evaluation."

    What do you think about this?

     
  4. Lisa Kitinoja points out that postharvest losses (due to poor handling on the farm, damages during harvest, poor quality packaging) bring farmers to raise the prices of their products on the market to compensate.

    What role could street food vendors play to reduce farmers postharvest losses?

     
  5. Prof. Hélène Delisle mentioned the Nutrition Friendly School Initiative implemented in Benin and Burkina Faso: street food vendors were trained in hygiene and basic nutrition to be able to sell healthier food to school children. This project proved to be successful, generating improvements in the variety and quality of food served. Nevertheless, such a project needed to sensitize the students themselves (they often love, you know, foods that are rich in chemical colors and flavors). Awareness activities were then conducted with the participation of teachers.

    Are you aware of campaigns or communication strategies, aimed specifically at children and young people, aimed to encourage them to eat healthier foods? Any example of  “fun and creative” campaigns, as suggested by Ms. Amila Fauziah?

     
  6. Farmers prefer to sell their products in bulk (either to general markets or supermatkets) in order to have a high revenue. This means that street food vendors, taken individually, are not an attractive customer to farmers. As pointed out by Salomeyesudas, to support the connection between street food vendors and local farmers, the former should unite in cooperatives enabling to buy large quantities of products. This strategy would benefits both actors, as it would eliminate middleman (See Mr. Palanivelayutham's contribution).

    What organizational strategies could be put in place to encourage, strengthen and make the link between street food vendors and local farmers profitable?

     
  7. Massive conurbation erases cultivable areas within urban areas (See Lal Manavado and Gisèle Yasmeen). This happens because the value of building areas is higher than that of cultivable areas. For this reason, cities’ governments prefer to sell (at high prices), or to grant land (with the prospect of high returns in taxes) for building rather than farming.

    Can you think of possible strategies to make arable land in the city as profitable (either in the short or in the long term) as building land?

     
  8. Finally, the food safety issue is certainly important. But it is necessary, in my opinion, to go beyond the great amount of literature and reports showing the high level of bacterial contamination and ensuing toxicological hazards of street foods. In 1985 Pan American and World Health Organization (PAHO and WHO) organized the first workshop on the issue in Lima, Peru. A few years later, in 1991, a severe cholera epidemic struck the Peruvian country and the surrounding Andean region; street food was considered to be the major carrier of the disease (Ries et al., 1992, Panisset, 2000). Ever since, the assessment of bacterial contamination levels in street foods has drawn the attention of scholars, authorities and organizations throughout the continent and beyond (Schubert, 1992; Arámbulo et al., 1995; Costarrica et al., 1996; Morón and Schjtman, 1997; Moy et al., 1997; Evans and Brachman, 1998; López Rivera et al., 1998; FAO and WHO, 2001; Hanashiro et al., 2005; Larralde and Sciutto, 2006; Bogota N.A.O., 2009; FAO, 2009a; Méndez et al., 2010).

    Several factors potentially contribute to bacterial contamination of street food. Beside the dust, pollution, insects that are lurking in the streets, risks may arise where street food is home-prepared by those vendors living and selling in underdeveloped settlements, where water and sanitation infrastructures and services are often deficient (UN-Habitat, 2003). When vendors have low or no schooling, their knowledge and awareness about bio-medical guidelines to handle food safely may be limited.

    Despite knowledge of the risk factors, actual harm to consumers’ health is yet to be fully proven and understood. Due to difficulties in tracking cases and the lack of disease-reporting systems, follow-up studies proving actual connections between street food consumption and food-borne diseases are still very few (i.e., Flisser, 2013). Little attention has been devoted to consumers and their eating habits, behaviors, and awareness. The fact that social and geographical origins largely determine consumers’ physiological adaptation and reaction to foods--whether contaminated or not--is neglected in the literature.

The food security is the societal issue that need attention. In the least developing countries, the well-defined and practical policies are important to involve the potential actors in street food, periurban agriculture and horticulture. The Governments have to prioritized the those area to ensure availability,accessibility and utilization of nutritious food for healthy and active life.